Aloe vera care: sun, watering and soil

Light

Aloe wants sun. NC State lists full sun to partial shade, the RHS asks for full light, and indoors that points to a south or west window. On the University of Illinois Extension scale, the spot directly in front of south glass delivers about 1,500 foot-candles, and the bright zone up to 5 feet back still gives around 300. In a dim room the rosette loosens and the leaves lean toward the light, and the RHS says plainly that aloes will not grow well in shade.

Strong light needs an introduction. UF/IFAS warns that aloe can sunburn when moved from low to bright light too quickly, and that a plant moved from a warm sunny spot to a dimmer one shows stress too. If you set the pot outdoors for summer, as UF/IFAS and the RHS both allow, start it in light shade and lengthen its time in sun over one to two weeks, the acclimatization period the University of Illinois Extension suggests for houseplants going outside. Bring it in before frost, since the RHS notes aloes cannot withstand freezing.

Water

Water an aloe deeply and rarely. NC State's rule is to let the soil dry completely between waterings, and UF/IFAS gives the minimum check as the top inch dry to the touch; in a cool or dim spot, follow the stricter rule. When the mix is dry, soak it until water runs from the drainage holes, and do not leave the pot sitting in water, a point UF/IFAS makes directly.

The leaves show how the reserve is holding up. Plump, firm leaves mean the plant has plenty stored. Thin, wrinkled or inward-curling leaves after a long dry spell mean it has drawn down its gel and needs a deep drink. Soft, translucent or mushy leaves at the base are the opposite story: too much water, often in cold weather, and the beginning of rot.

The RHS recommends a winter rest for succulents from November to early March, with cool nights and minimal water, offered only to keep the leaves from shriveling. Its profile for Aloe vera puts it simply: water moderately when in growth and very sparingly when dormant in winter. An aloe on a cool windowsill in January may need water only rarely, so test the mix all the way down before you pour.

Soil and pH

The RHS recommends a peat-free cactus compost, or a loam-based potting compost with added horticultural grit, and NC State asks for a very well-drained soil suited to succulents. UF/IFAS observes that aloe thrives even in poor soil, provided it drains. A bagged cactus mix with an extra handful of grit or coarse sand is ideal. NC State's preference for clay pots with several drainage holes makes sense on two counts: unglazed terracotta pulls moisture away from the roots, and its weight steadies a heavy rosette.

Humidity

This is a plant for dry air. The RHS says aloes dislike humid atmospheres and need good ventilation, which makes the average heated home in winter close to ideal. Skip misting, keep the pot out of steamy bathrooms, and do not crowd it among tropical foliage plants that sit on pebble trays.

Temperature

Ordinary room temperatures suit aloe through spring and summer. In winter it does best a little cooler: the RHS suggests resting indoor succulents with night temperatures of only 46 to 50°F (8 to 10°C) from November to early March, and links that cool, dry rest to flowering. The RHS rates Aloe vera H1c, a plant that can stand outdoors in summer but must come in for winter, and it cannot survive freezing. Central heating is not a problem, the RHS adds, as long as the plant is not right next to a radiator; on the other side, keep leaves from touching frosty glass.

Fertilizer

Aloe asks for little feeding. The RHS profile for Aloe vera suggests a general liquid fertilizer monthly from May to August, and the RHS succulent guide favors a feed high in potassium, such as a tomato fertilizer, or a specialist cactus feed. Use the label rate, never stronger. Stop in autumn and give nothing during the winter rest, when unused fertilizer only accumulates as salts in a pot that is rarely flushed.

Work out the dose for your watering can with the fertilizer dilution calculator →

Repotting

Repot when the plant has outgrown its pot or the mix has broken down, and do it in spring, the timing the RHS recommends for succulents. UF/IFAS adds two practical points. The pot controls the plant: keep an aloe in a smaller pot and it stays compact, give it a bigger one and it grows larger. And never jump more than two pot sizes, since a container that is too large holds extra moisture and invites root rot. Handle the plant with gloves or a folded towel, because NC State notes the leaf margins carry small white teeth.

• Offsets crowd the pot and press against the rim
• The mix has broken down and stays wet
• The rosette has become top-heavy for its pot

Propagation

Aloe vera multiplies by offsets, the small rosettes, often called pups, that form around the base of a mature plant. NC State recommends division as the way to propagate it, and the RHS says to separate offsets in spring or early summer and root them in cactus potting compost. Wait until a pup has several leaves of its own, then ease the root ball out and free the pup with a clean knife, keeping whatever roots it has. The RHS also lists seed sown as soon as ripe, but UF/IFAS notes that indoor plants rarely bloom, so offsets are the practical route.

Methods: Offsets (division), Seed · Best season: spring or early summer.

Common problems

Root rot is the problem NC State warns about most, and it begins with soggy mix. Mealybugs and aphids are the insects NC State lists for aloe, and it names scale, leaf spot, aloe rust and sooty mold as well. Sunburn after a sudden move into bright light leaves discolored, dry patches, while a plant kept too dark loses its tight rosette. Thin, wrinkled leaves only mean the stored water has run low.

Not sure which one it is? Try the plant problem diagnosis tool →

Is the aloe vera toxic to cats and dogs?

The ASPCA lists Aloe vera as toxic to cats and dogs. Its toxic principles are saponins and anthraquinones, and the clinical signs are vomiting, lethargy and diarrhea; the ASPCA notes that the gel itself is considered edible. The irritant is in the outer part of the leaf, which is why NC State advises cutting it away and using only the gel. NC State rates the poison severity for people as low, with abdominal cramping, diarrhea and red urine possible after eating the plant, and skin irritation from its latex; the RHS also labels it harmful if eaten by people and pets. Keep it out of reach, and call your veterinarian or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center if a pet chews it.

Check any other plant against the ASPCA lists →