Light
Most succulents are sun plants trying to make do indoors. Clemson Extension says jade plants do best with four or more hours of direct sun a day, ideally in a south-facing window, and the Illinois Extension rates jade a high-light plant. NC State says Echeveria leaf color improves in sunlight and that the rosettes thrive on a bright, sunny windowsill, while burro's tail wants a high-light spot with at least partial sun. Aloe vera grows in full sun to partial shade.
Haworthia is the exception for darker homes. NC State calls it somewhat tolerant of low light, though it colors best in full sun or bright, indirect light. For the others, too little light shows quickly as etiolation: rosettes flatten and open, stems stretch between widely spaced leaves, and the whole plant leans toward the glass. Make any move into stronger sun gradually. Clemson recommends partial shade for the first few weeks when cacti go outdoors, and the same caution protects shade-grown succulents from scorch.
| Range | Medium light to direct sun, best in bright light |
|---|---|
| Foot-candles | 150 to 1,500 fc (1,615 to 16,146 lux) |
| Windows | South, West, East · tolerates direct sun |
| Sources | Clemson Cooperative Extension; University of Illinois Extension; North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox |
Water
Water deeply, then wait. NC State advises letting aloe dry completely between waterings and letting Haworthia dry out too, and UF/IFAS says to let the soil dry between waterings and make sure containers are not holding water, because soggy soil causes root rot. When the mix is dry all the way through, water until it drains from the bottom, then empty the saucer. Small sips that wet only the surface leave the lower roots guessing and keep the top of the soil damp where rot begins.
Jade is the important exception. Clemson advises keeping its soil moist but not wet while it grows in spring and summer, and warns that drought can cause dwarfing, leaf spotting, leaf drop and even death; the Illinois Extension's version is to let the soil nearly dry between waterings. Rosette types such as Echeveria have their own quirk: UF/IFAS warns against letting water sit in the center of the rosette, where it causes rot and disease.
In winter, growth slows and thirst drops with it. NC State recommends watering aloe less often, reducing jade's water from fall to late winter and cutting back on burro's tail, for which it also recommends tepid water. Clemson's rule for dormant cacti, water just enough to keep them from shriveling, translates well to succulents on a cool windowsill.
| Rule | When the mix is dry all the way down: soak the pot, then let the mix dry out completely before watering again |
|---|---|
| Winter | Water much less from fall to late winter; Clemson's rule for dormant cacti, just enough to keep them from shriveling, is a good guide. |
| Watch for | Jade is the exception: Clemson advises keeping its soil moist but not wet in spring and summer, since drought causes leaf drop. |
| Never let water sit in the center of a rosette, where it causes rot. | |
| Containers must not hold water; soggy soil causes root rot. | |
| Shallow clay pots and bright light speed drying; plastic pots and cool rooms slow it. | |
| Sources | UF/IFAS Extension; North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox; Clemson Cooperative Extension |
Soil and pH
Drainage is everything. UF/IFAS recommends a coarse, well-drained sand mix in a shallow clay or terra cotta container with drainage holes, and NC State says clay is best for aloe. For jade, Clemson suggests a cactus mix with some added organic matter, or one part sterilized soil, one part sphagnum peat moss and three parts coarse sand by volume. Clemson's cactus recipe, equal volumes of peat-based potting soil and very coarse sand or grit, suits most rosette succulents. Garden soil and pots without holes are the two shortcuts to avoid.
| Mix | A coarse, gritty, fast-draining mix, such as equal parts peat-based potting soil and very coarse sand or grit, in a clay pot with drainage holes. |
|---|---|
| Ingredients | peat-based potting soil or cactus mix, very coarse sand or grit, some organic matter for jade |
| Sources | UF/IFAS Extension; North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox; Clemson Cooperative Extension |
Humidity
Succulents are built for dry air. NC State notes that average home humidity is fine for Haworthia, Clemson says jade plants like the warm, dry conditions found in most homes, and NC State adds that burro's tail prefers fresh air. Skip misting, pebble trays and humidifiers; damp air around the leaves slows drying and invites rot inside tight rosettes.
Temperature
Clemson recommends daytime temperatures of 65 to 75°F for jade plants, with nights between 50 and 55°F, and advises keeping foliage off cold windowpanes in winter. Cool winter nights do this group good: Clemson notes that dormant cacti do best at 45 to 55°F, and NC State says burro's tail tolerates temperatures down to 40°F outdoors. Most are not frost hardy, though. NC State says echeverias must come inside for winter outside frost-free areas, and that Haworthia is sensitive to frost.
| Minimum | 50°F (10°C) |
|---|---|
| Ideal | 65 to 75°F (18 to 24°C) |
| Humidity | Dry air is fine. Built for dry air: average home humidity is fine, and misting or humidifiers only slow drying. |
| Sources | Clemson Cooperative Extension; North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox |
Fertilizer
Feed lightly, if at all. Clemson suggests fertilizing jade only every three to four months with a liquid houseplant fertilizer, and NC State says burro's tail needs feeding just once or twice during the growing season. The Illinois Extension's general rule for houseplants, no more than once every 1 to 3 months between March and September at the label rate, is the upper limit for any succulent. For cacti, Clemson recommends a low-nitrogen fertilizer such as 5-10-5. Do not feed in winter, and wait four months before feeding a repotted jade, as Clemson advises.
| When | Spring and summer, March to September at most, every 4 to 13 weeks, none in winter |
|---|---|
| What | Liquid houseplant fertilizer at the label rate, or a low-nitrogen formula such as 5-10-5; jade only every three to four months, label rate |
| Sources | University of Illinois Extension; Clemson Cooperative Extension; North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox |
Work out the dose for your watering can with the fertilizer dilution calculator →
Repotting
Most succulents are content slightly crowded. Clemson says jade plants can live happily for years while root-bound, and that cacti should be repotted only as needed, into a container only slightly larger than the old one, because an oversized pot stays moist and leads to rot. Repot as new growth starts, which Clemson puts at April for cacti. Afterward, keep the soil dry for several days so damaged roots can heal; Clemson gives this advice for both jade and cacti. An old, top-heavy jade eventually needs a large, heavy pot so it does not tip over.
- Roots fill the pot or grow out of the drainage hole
- Offsets crowd the rim and spill over the edge
- A tall jade becomes top-heavy and tips over