Light
NC State says this plant requires bright, indirect sunlight reaching all parts of the plant, and that it is not full-sun tolerant. In practice, hang it directly in front of an east or west window, the University of Illinois Extension's high light level, or a few feet back from a south window where midday rays do not hit the leaves directly. A couple of hours of morning sun is welcome.
The phrase all parts of the plant matters for a trailer. A basket hung high in a window lights the top beautifully while the strands below hang in shadow and thin out. Turn the basket every week or two, and if the crown looks sparse while the tips are lush, the top needs more light. Leaves that turn brown or reddish are, according to NC State, usually sunburned: pull the plant back from the glass or add a sheer curtain.
| Range | Medium light to bright light, best in bright light |
|---|---|
| Foot-candles | 150 to 300 fc (1,615 to 3,229 lux) |
| Windows | East, West, South · morning sun only |
| Sources | North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox; University of Illinois Extension |
Water
The rule from NC State is precise: water only when the top half of the soil feels dry. That sits between a fern and a cactus. Push a finger or a wooden skewer halfway down the pot; if the upper half is dry and the lower half only slightly cool, water thoroughly until it drains, then empty the saucer or let the basket drip in the sink before rehanging it.
Overwatering is the one thing NC State singles out to avoid, and root rot is the result. The leaves help you read the plant. Firm, glossy, plump bananas mean it has water in reserve. Slightly wrinkled leaves after a hot week mean it is ready. Leaves that turn soft and see-through while the soil is still damp mean the roots are suffocating; let it dry out and check them.
In winter, when light and warmth drop, the plant slows and the soil stays wet much longer. The RHS advises giving most indoor succulents a cool rest from November to early March with minimal watering, just enough to keep them from shriveling. String of bananas is not a strict desert plant, so do not let it go bone dry for weeks, but expect to water far less often than in summer.
| Rule | When the top half of the pot is dry: water only when the top half of the soil feels dry, then let excess drain away |
|---|---|
| Winter | Water sparingly during the cooler winter rest, only enough to stop the leaves shriveling, as the RHS advises for indoor succulents. |
| Watch for | NC State says overwatering must be avoided; root rot follows soggy soil. |
| Each leaf has a translucent window and stores water, so firm, plump leaves mean the plant is not thirsty. | |
| A hanging basket in a warm, bright spot dries much faster than a pot on a shelf. | |
| Sources | North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox; Royal Horticultural Society |
Soil and pH
NC State recommends a well-drained, coarse or sandy potting medium or a cactus mix. If you mix your own, the RHS recipe for succulents works well: two parts loam-based potting compost to one part horticultural grit or sharp sand by volume. Plastic hanging baskets hold water longer than terra cotta, so lean grittier if you use one. A drainage hole is essential; decorative baskets with sealed liners are a common cause of rot.
| Mix | Well-drained, coarse or sandy potting mix or cactus mix in a pot with drainage holes. |
|---|---|
| Ingredients | cactus mix, coarse sand or horticultural grit, loam-based potting soil |
| Sources | North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox; Royal Horticultural Society |
Humidity
No extra humidity is needed. Like other succulents, it copes with the dry air of a heated home, and the RHS notes that succulents generally like good ventilation. Misting only wets the leaves without reaching the roots.
Temperature
NC State describes string of bananas as not frost tolerant and hardy outdoors only in USDA zones 10a to 11b, so it is a houseplant almost everywhere. NC State gives no indoor minimum for this species. The RHS asks for winter nights around 46 to 50°F (8 to 10°C) for most resting indoor succulents, and we treat 46°F as the floor. For comparison, NC State gives its close relative string-of-pearls 70 to 80°F in summer and 50 to 60°F in winter. Keep it away from cold glass and heater vents.
| Minimum | 46°F (8°C) |
|---|---|
| Humidity | Dry air is fine. Ordinary dry indoor air is fine; the RHS notes succulents cope well with central heating. |
| Sources | North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox; Royal Horticultural Society |
Fertilizer
A light, regular feed during the growing season keeps the strands lengthening. The RHS suggests feeding succulents monthly from April to September with a liquid cactus feed or a high-potassium fertilizer, and the University of Illinois Extension's general rule caps houseplant feeding at once every 1 to 3 months between March and September, never stronger than the label. Choose a point within that range and stop in winter.
| When | Spring and summer, April to September, every 4 to 13 weeks, none in winter |
|---|---|
| What | Liquid cactus feed or balanced houseplant fertilizer at the label rate, never stronger, label rate |
| Sources | Royal Horticultural Society; University of Illinois Extension |
Work out the dose for your watering can with the fertilizer dilution calculator →
Repotting
Repot in spring, when roots fill the pot or stems have rooted across the whole surface and the soil dries out almost as soon as you water. Move up only a little in size; the RHS warns that a pot too large holds excess wet compost that causes rot. Because the plant roots along its stems, repotting is also a good moment to coil a few long strands back onto the soil surface, where they will root and thicken the crown.
- Roots fill the pot and the mix dries out within a day or two
- Stems have rooted all over the surface and crowded the basket
- The center of the pot has thinned while the edges trail