Philodendron care: heartleaf vines and upright types

Light

Heartleaf philodendron is one of the few houseplants the University of Illinois Extension lists for low light, around 75 foot-candles, which is a few feet from a north window or 3 to 10 feet from an east or west one. Clemson says it grows well under ordinary room light or near a north, east or west window. That tolerance has a price: the RHS notes that a philodendron short on light turns leggy, putting out fewer and smaller leaves spaced along bare stem.

Self-heading types want more. Clemson recommends medium to bright light near an east, west or south window for tree philodendrons, and NC State says low light leaves them with smaller leaves carrying fewer lobes or none. UF/IFAS adds that hybrids with colored foliage need higher light to show their full color. For every philodendron, keep direct sun off the leaves; NC State and the RHS both warn that it scorches them.

Water

Water when the top inch of mix feels dry, the rule UF/IFAS gives for heartleaf and hybrid philodendrons alike. Clemson describes the goal as soil kept evenly moist but never soggy, and the University of Illinois Extension as minimally moist at all times, a narrower window than it allows pothos. Never leave the pot sitting in water: the RHS warns that saturated compost leads to root rot, yellowing and eventually collapse.

Vining and self-heading plants differ mostly in volume. A heartleaf in a hanging basket dries quickly in warm, bright air, while a tree philodendron in a large floor pot holds moisture for much longer, so test each pot rather than watering them on the same day. NC State recommends slowing down in winter. The RHS suggests rainwater or filtered water at room temperature, especially where tap water is hard, and NC State notes that tree philodendron does not tolerate salt buildup, so flush its pot regularly.

Soil and pH

The RHS recommends a loose, free-draining, slightly acidic mix of pH 5 to 6: two parts orchid compost to one part peat-free ericaceous compost. NC State likewise lists acid soil, high in organic matter and well drained. Clemson and the University of Illinois Extension are content with a general-purpose potting soil, which works if bark or perlite is added so it drains fast, and UF/IFAS stresses a lightweight, well-drained medium so roots never sit waterlogged. For big self-heading plants, use a stout, heavy container; UF/IFAS warns they can tip over.

Humidity

High humidity gives the best growth, Clemson says, but philodendrons tolerate the low humidity of most homes, and the RHS calls their preference moderately humid air. NC State notes that heartleaf does best in medium relative humidity and appreciates misting. In a very dry winter apartment, a humidifier or a pebble tray does more than a daily spritz. Climbing plants on a moss pole gain from keeping the moss damp, which also helps the aerial roots grip, as the RHS points out.

Temperature

Clemson gives night temperatures of 65 to 70°F and days of 75 to 85°F as ideal, and NC State puts the range at 65 to 85°F, adding that philodendrons are very sensitive to cold and drafts. The RHS sets the floor at 59°F (15°C). UF/IFAS is a little more tolerant for heartleaf, calling anything below 50°F too cool. If you summer a tree philodendron on a patio, NC State advises bringing it indoors once temperatures dip below 60°F.

Fertilizer

Clemson recommends feeding regularly with a dilute, water-soluble houseplant fertilizer, or using a time-release product instead. UF/IFAS takes a lighter line for heartleaf, every 3 to 4 months, while the University of Illinois Extension's general rule is once every 1 to 3 months between March and September, and the RHS feeds from April to September. Too much does more harm than too little: Clemson and UF/IFAS both say excess fertilizer makes leaf tips curl and turn brown. Mixing at half the label rate is a simple way to follow Clemson's advice to keep it dilute.

Work out the dose for your watering can with the fertilizer dilution calculator →

Repotting

Philodendrons can stay in their pot for at least a couple of years, says the RHS, until roots fill it densely; NC State says to repot once the plant becomes root-bound. Spring is the best time according to both, although Clemson notes overcrowded plants can be repotted in any season. Choose a pot only slightly larger, the RHS advises, because surplus compost stays wet and rots roots; Clemson's general rule is 1 or 2 inches wider. If a vining plant is going to climb, set a moss pole or bark-covered board in the new pot at the same time.

• Roots densely pack the pot
• The plant is root-bound and water runs straight through
• A self-heading plant has grown top-heavy and tips its container

Propagation

Vining philodendrons root readily from stem cuttings, and Clemson and the University of Illinois Extension both say any season works. The RHS takes a short length of stem, cut just below a leaf joint, strips the lower leaves and stands it in water, where roots appear within a couple of weeks. Illinois prefers a rooting medium, warning that roots formed in water are often weak and slow to adapt to soil, so move water-rooted pieces into a free-draining mix early.

Self-heading philodendrons offer little stem to cut. Clemson suggests air layering for them and notes that some kinds produce offsets that can be separated and potted. For an air layer, the University of Illinois Extension wounds the stem partway through, packs very moist sphagnum around the wound, seals it in clear plastic and waits 3 to 4 months for roots before severing the top.

Methods: Stem cuttings of vining types, Air layering, Offsets on some self-heading types · Best season: any season (clemson, illinois extension); the rhs prefers spring to late summer.

Common problems

Philodendron troubles fall into a short list. Yellowing lower leaves and dying growing tips come from too little light or too much water, per Clemson. Curled, brown tips point to fertilizer overload. Long bare stems with small leaves mean the light is too weak, and a collapsing plant with soft roots means the mix stayed wet. Aphids, mealybugs, scale and spider mites turn up occasionally, and NC State adds banded greenhouse thrips; UF/IFAS suggests simply washing pests off in a sink or shower. Self-heading types have brittle leaf stalks that snap when brushed, so Clemson advises keeping them out of traffic paths.

Not sure which one it is? Try the plant problem diagnosis tool →

Is the philodendron toxic to cats and dogs?

The ASPCA lists the heartleaf philodendron (Philodendron hederaceum) as toxic to dogs, cats and horses, and the tree philodendron (Philodendron selloum) as toxic to dogs and cats. The culprit is calcium oxalate, insoluble crystals that cause oral irritation, pain and swelling of the mouth, tongue and lips, excessive drooling, vomiting and difficulty swallowing. UF/IFAS warns the swelling can reach the upper airway, and NC State rates poison severity for people as low, with sap that can irritate skin. Keep trailing stems out of reach and call your veterinarian or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435 if a pet chews one.

Check any other plant against the ASPCA lists →