Peperomia care: light, water and species

Light

Bright, indirect light suits nearly every species. The University of Illinois Extension classes Peperomia obtusifolia as a medium light plant, about 150 foot-candles, which matches a spot directly in front of a north window or a few feet back from an east or west one. Clemson suggests an east or south window, and Missouri Botanical Garden names north or east as the best indoor spot for the emerald ripple.

These plants tolerate low light better than most. NC State says the baby rubber plant and the emerald ripple can sit in low light for several months without stress, especially plain green forms, and that the emerald ripple does well under bright fluorescent office lights. Do not push it too far: the RHS warns that deep shade causes weak, spindly growth, and both NC State and the RHS say direct sun scorches the leaves. Variegated cultivars need the brighter end of the range to keep their color.

Water

Water thoroughly, let the pot drain, and wait until the top of the mix has dried before watering again. The RHS says to let the top few centimeters dry, roughly an inch or two, and Missouri Botanical Garden says to let the soil almost dry on top. Clemson simply says to let it dry out between waterings, then return the pot to its saucer only after it has finished draining.

The succulent-leaved types, such as the baby rubber plant and the raindrop peperomia, carry water in their leaves and stems, so it is safer to err on the dry side. Overwatering causes nearly every serious problem: Clemson names leaf drop and root rot, NC State names yellowing and curling leaves, and UF/IFAS adds stem rot for the Florida peperomia, which it says does better with slightly dry soil.

Slow down in winter. Missouri Botanical Garden advises reducing watering from fall to late winter, when short days slow growth and the mix dries more slowly.

Soil and pH

Clemson recommends a well-drained houseplant or cactus potting mix, while Missouri Botanical Garden suggests a peaty mix and NC State a moist but well-drained blend of loam and sand. The common thread is air around the roots. A standard houseplant mix with a handful of perlite works for most species; use a cactus mix for the thick-leaved, succulent ones.

Humidity

Peperomias cope with normal indoor humidity. NC State says they thrive at the humidity levels of most homes and suggests a humidifier only if the air is very dry, and it describes the baby rubber plant as preferring medium to low humidity. The RHS says most prefer humid air but adapt to lower levels, and Missouri Botanical Garden notes they like high humidity in summer. Clemson suggests a humidifier in winter. Keep them away from radiators, which the RHS says dehydrate the leaves.

Temperature

The RHS gives 65 to 86°F (18 to 30°C) as the comfortable range and says to keep peperomias above 50°F (10°C). Missouri Botanical Garden is more cautious for the emerald ripple, with a recommended winter minimum of 60°F, so treat 60°F as the safer floor for that species. Clemson advises waiting until nights stay at 60°F or higher, usually in May, before moving them outdoors. Cold drafts are a particular risk, according to NC State.

Fertilizer

Feed sparingly and only in spring and summer. Clemson recommends a low-strength liquid fertilizer from time to time or a slow-release granular fertilizer once a year. Missouri Botanical Garden suggests monthly feeding for the emerald ripple during the growing season and none from fall through winter. The University of Illinois Extension guideline for most houseplants, once every one to three months between March and September, sits comfortably between them.

Work out the dose for your watering can with the fertilizer dilution calculator →

Repotting

Peperomias rarely need a new pot. NC State notes that they are slow growing and do not need repotting often, and Clemson says they can stay in the same pot for several years. When roots finally crowd the pot, Clemson advises moving up to a pot only slightly larger than the grower's pot. Repot in spring, when growth resumes, and keep the plant at the same depth it grew before.

• Roots fill the pot and show at the drainage hole
• The plant tips over or dries out much faster than before
• The old mix stays wet for days after watering

Propagation

Most peperomias root easily from leaves or stems in spring. Clemson describes leaf cuttings with at least an inch of petiole inserted into rooting medium, and stem cuttings of 3 to 5 inches with rooting hormone in potting soil. For species like the baby rubber plant, cuttings of 4 to 6 inches can also be rooted in water.

Clumping species can be divided instead, which NC State lists alongside leaf and stem cuttings. Whatever the method, use a light, barely moist mix and keep the cuttings warm and in bright, indirect light until new growth shows they have rooted.

Methods: Leaf cuttings with a short petiole, Stem cuttings in mix or water, Division of clumping types · Best season: spring.

Common problems

Problems are few and nearly always tied to water. NC State lists mealybugs, spider mites, aphids, scale, fungus gnats and whiteflies as the pests to monitor, and Clemson and Missouri Botanical Garden add fungal leaf spot. Root rot from soil kept too moist is the most common disease. UF/IFAS notes that Florida peperomia is generally unaffected by long-term pests, with mites and leaf spot only short-term issues.

Not sure which one it is? Try the plant problem diagnosis tool →

Is the peperomia toxic to cats and dogs?

Peperomias are a safe choice for homes with pets. The ASPCA lists the baby rubber plant, emerald ripple, watermelon and red edge peperomias as non-toxic to cats and dogs, and Clemson says most peperomias are considered safe for pets. One naming trap: the ASPCA entries called rubber plant and baby rubber plant describe Peperomia obtusifolia, not the ficus sold as a rubber plant, which is a different and toxic plant. Eating any plant in quantity can still upset a pet's stomach.

Check any other plant against the ASPCA lists →