Monstera adansonii care: growing the Swiss cheese vine

Light

NC State recommends bright, indirect sunlight and warns that direct sun can scorch the leaves. The RHS profile places it in partial shade with an east, west or south aspect, and its Swiss cheese plant guide suggests a spot by an east- or west-facing window or in a bright room away from the glass. On the University of Illinois Extension scale, that means somewhere between medium and high light, about 150 to 300 foot-candles.

Light also decides how holey the leaves are. Clemson notes that monsteras will not develop their perforations if the light level is too low, and the RHS says the same: in very low light, leaves tend to have fewer holes. A vine that keeps producing small, solid leaves on long bare stems is asking for a brighter window. South windows work if a sheer curtain or a few feet of distance takes the edge off the midday sun.

Water

Let the compost become almost dry, then water thoroughly: that is the RHS method for Swiss cheese plants, and it suits this species well. Push a finger a couple of inches into the mix; when it feels dry at that depth, water slowly until it runs from the drainage hole, wait a few minutes and empty the saucer. NC State describes the ideal soil as moist and well drained, so do not wait until the mix pulls away from the pot edge.

Monstera adansonii usually lives in a smaller pot than its big relative, with a lighter root system, so it cycles through water faster, especially when it has filled a hanging basket. Bright light and summer warmth speed things up further. In a dim room or in winter the same pot can stay damp far longer, which is why a fixed schedule leads to rot.

Overwatering is the classic killer. The RHS warns that a pot left sitting in water can rot the roots, and NC State lists root rot from overwatering among the main problems. Water the mix, not the leaves: NC State also recommends avoiding splashing the foliage and keeping air moving to prevent leaf spots. The RHS prefers rainwater or filtered water at room temperature in hard-water areas.

Soil and pH

The roots of this climber are adapted to clinging to bark, so they want air as much as moisture. The RHS recommends an open, well-drained, slightly acidic mix with a pH of 5 to 6, suggesting one part ericaceous compost to two parts orchid compost, and NC State also recommends a slightly acidic pH. A standard potting mix lightened with orchid bark and perlite gives a similar result. Avoid dense, peaty mixes on their own, which stay wet in the center of the pot.

Humidity

NC State says Monstera adansonii prefers high humidity and suggests a humidifier or a tray of wet pebbles under the pot. The RHS adds that when the air is too dry, especially in centrally heated homes, leaf edges start to brown. The thin leaves of this species show dry air faster than the leathery leaves of a deliciosa. Grouping it with other tropical plants helps, and a bathroom with a bright window is often its happiest spot.

Temperature

The RHS recommends keeping Swiss cheese plants warm all year at 65 to 77°F (18 to 25°C), away from cold drafts and radiators. NC State sets the floor: avoid cold drafts and temperature drops below 50°F (10°C). Rooms in the 60s are fine; it is the cold window glass in January and air conditioner blasts in summer that cause trouble.

Fertilizer

The RHS advises feeding Swiss cheese plants with a balanced liquid fertilizer during the growing season, roughly spring to fall. For frequency, the University of Illinois Extension's guideline of no more than once every one to three months between March and September, at the label rate, is a safe baseline; a vigorous vine in a bright window can take the shorter end. Do not feed in winter.

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Repotting

Repot in spring or early summer when roots push out of the drainage hole, circle the root ball, or the plant wilts between normal waterings, the signs the University of Illinois Extension lists. The RHS advises a new pot only a few centimeters wider than the old one, because overpotting leaves a mass of wet compost the roots cannot use. Add or extend the moss pole at the same time, so the stems can keep climbing.

• Roots grow out of the drainage hole or coil around the root ball
• The mix dries out very soon after a thorough watering
• The vine has outgrown its support and the pot tips over

Propagation

Stem cuttings are the recommended method, according to NC State. Cut a section with at least one node and an aerial root bump, ideally two or three leaves, between spring and late summer. The RHS stands cuttings in a glass of water in a bright spot until they form a good set of roots, then pots them up. The University of Illinois Extension method, cuttings of 3 to 6 inches with two or more nodes inserted into damp mix under a clear cover, works just as well and skips the transition from water to soil.

Methods: Stem cuttings in water, Stem cuttings in moist mix · Best season: spring to late summer.

Common problems

Most problems come from light and water. Small, solid leaves mean too little light or nothing to climb; yellowing leaves and a sour smell point to wet roots; brown, crisp edges point to dry air. NC State lists spider mites, mealybugs, aphids, whiteflies and scale as pests, plus rust, powdery mildew and blight among diseases. The RHS recommends wiping the leaves regularly, which removes insects early and keeps the leaves clean enough to use the light they get.

Not sure which one it is? Try the plant problem diagnosis tool →

Is the monstera adansonii toxic to cats and dogs?

The ASPCA has no entry for Monstera adansonii on either its cats or dogs plant list; its Swiss cheese plant and Mexican breadfruit entries both refer to Monstera deliciosa. The toxicity information here therefore comes from NC State, which flags this species as a problem for cats, dogs and children: it contains calcium oxalate crystals that cause inflammation of the mouth, throat and digestive tract, vomiting, drooling and loss of appetite if eaten, and the sap irritates skin. Clemson notes that all parts of monsteras contain calcium oxalate. Keep it out of reach and wear gloves when pruning.

Check any other plant against the ASPCA lists →